If you’ve read our last blog, you’ll be familiar with our sizing system. Which means you’re ready to find that perfect fitting bra…right? Well, almost!

Just as all women’s breast sizes differ, so do their shapes. Which is why it’s just as important to understand what breast shape you have as it is to get the sizing right. Once you have that magic combination, you can find a bra that you feel comfortable, supported, and confident in. Because whatever shape and size you are, you can achieve a fabulous silhouette in the right bra.

Our measuring system is a great place to start to help you understand your breast shape and proportions. It shows you how to measure your breasts both horizontally and vertically to identify which wire and cup size you need. If your measurements fit exactly into our cup measurements, your breasts will be of average width and height. But if one measurement is bigger or smaller, it can mean your breasts fall into one of the following categories…

Projected or shallow – which will guide the overall proportions of your bra

Narrow or wide – which will guide the width of wire you need

Tall or short – which will guide both your wire height and amount of cup coverage required

Soft or firm – which will guide the best cup shape and the amount of stretch necessary

Read on to learn more about these variations in breast shape and to discover which bras will create that perfect silhouette for you…

Projected vs. Shallow

When it comes to working out your breast shape, one of the most important factors is how much your breasts ‘stick out’ - or in slightly more technical terms, ‘project’. This will depend on how much breast tissue you have in relation to the area of your breast root (where your breast attaches to your torso).

Projected breasts tend to have a smaller than average root area and stick out more in front. The good news is there’s lots of bras made to fit this shape but the most common problems for women with very projected breasts are cup overspill, the gore standing away from the chest, and wires which are too wide (a result of having to size up a cup to get volume outwards). The answer is to look for bras which provide support that extends outwards or a minimiser bra that helps compress your breasts and reduces projection.

Shallow breasts can have the same amount of breast tissue as projected but are often smaller and spread out closer to the chest, thus appearing less voluminous. If you have shallow breasts, they’re usually self-supporting. You may find that your breast tissue won’t fill a whole cup or you may struggle with ‘side boob’ (a sign that your bra cup is too small). Bras which provide a little less coverage such as balconettes could be the perfect choice as they’ll give you the space you need to fully fill those cups.

Narrow vs. Wide

Hands up if you’ve experienced discomfort due to underwires. About 99.9% of you then. Which is why, for comfort’s sake, it’s so important to find a bra which has a wire width which matches your root width. Because wearing a bra with too narrow wires will feel painful, leave marks and can, in time, damage breast tissue.

If you often find you need to go up a cup size to ensure the wire encases all your breast tissue, you probably have a wide breast root and need to try styles with wider wires to ensure they fit perfectly underneath the breast.

If you have a narrow breast root, you may feel that wires reach round your back or rest on your ribs, leaving empty fabric on the side. If that’s the case, the solution is to look for bras with narrower cups and a smaller underwire.

Tall vs. Short

Yes, breasts can be tall and short too!

Tall breasts tend to have a lot of breast tissue at the top of the cup or naturally settle high in a bra. If you have very full, projected breasts, (and especially if they’re firm too), you most likely have tall breasts. So, when it comes to bras, it’s all about finding cups with more coverage and/or higher wires. Try taller cups and stretchy fabrics to find that extra coverage or a minimiser bra which helps evenly distribute the breast tissue and makes accidental spillages a thing of the past!

If you know you can wear low-cut tops without fear of falling out or if you often try on bras where the cups sit too high on you, you most likely have short breasts. Bras with less coverage and lower wires such as demi cups or balconettes can give you all the support and shapeliness you need.

Soft vs. Firm

Time to talk texture…

Soft breasts tend to mould almost completely to a bra which means they can be amenable to a variety of bra shapes. But it also means they can suffer from seams and trims digging into the breast and creating a bump. To avoid this, try bras with stretchy cup edges but not too much stretch within the main cup. Most importantly, make sure the cup shape moulds neatly with your breast as that will avoid those pesky bulges where the seams lie.

Firm breasts have a more defined shape and feel harder. They tend to maintain their shape no matter what bra is being worn and will only have bumps when wearing too small a size. They may also feel heavier and need a bra with enough support and coverage to keep everything in place. To find the right support, look for firm fabrics such as powernet or tulle and a firm but comfortable wire. Also, make sure the bra has a supportive underband which is your correct size to take the pressure off your shoulders.



Now you have the inside track on breast shapes, we’d love to hand you your ideal bra on a plate. But the reality is, there’s no exact science. No one falls into one category. You could have shallow, firm breasts with wide roots. Projected, soft breasts with narrow roots. Or many other combinations. And just to throw another spanner in the works, breast shapes and firmness can change over time, whether it’s weight related, hormonal or other life changes.

At Phaein, our mission has always been to create bras that work for every type of breast shape. Our collection has been innovatively designed to give all women high-performance, confidence-boosting lingerie, so explore our style guide to better understand what designs will work best for you.

For highly-projected breasts, take a peek at our flattering Balconette 0.2 which offers a firmer cup, increased coverage and centred straps, providing support in all the right places. Or for shallow, wide-rooted breasts where wires regularly dig in, try our stylish Balconette 0.1 to give you a more centred, projected, slimming shape.

Remember, comfort is key, so it’s worth trying various styles to help you find that perfect fit. And with Christmas looming, keep your eyes peeled as Phaein have some festive surprises which may just do the trick!