How a bra should fit and solving fit problems

Most people wear a size that’s too large in the band and too small in the cup.

Always try your bra on the loosest hook. By doing this you ensure you can wear the bra as long as possible, by moving to a tighter hook as the elastics start to loosen with age.



Parts of a bra

The Cups

First 'swoop and scoop' (Scoop all your breast tissue from under the arms to the front and lift the breast from below the wire so all of your tissue is centred and lifted in the cup). The cups should lie smooth and be filled out after doing this.

The cups dig in or you have breast spilling out at the top or side 
Go up one or two cup sizes.

If the cups wrinkle or gape at the top, you can try the following:

  • Tightening the shoulder straps.
  • Try on one cup size down. 
  • Check your underband measurements. If you can go down a size, try on a band size smaller with a cup size smaller (the tighter underband will pull the wires more open). If this too small, keep your smaller band size but go back up to your original cup size.


The Underband

Please measure yourself and see our size chart to check you are wearing the right size.

Your underband should feel snug and remain parallel to the floor throughout the day.

The back of your bra tends to ride up
This is the most common sign you need to go down a band size. We recommend measuring yourself to check your size.

I'm wearing the correct size but it feels too tight
If you haven't measured yourself, please do! Bra sizing is very confusing and our bodies change more often than we realise. If your correct size does feel too tight, you might need to get used to it if you've always worn looser bands. If it feels painful or restrictive or you are very sensitive, go up a size!

The one size is too tight but the size up is too loose

Some of us fall right between sizes - unfortunately! Wear the larger size and put it on the middle hook, that should be right between the sizes (the tightest hook is about the same as the band size down, so if you're wearing your bra on that hook, go down one size).


The Wires

First check the wires are sitting flat on your ribcage and aren’t on your breast tissue. Scoop all your breast tissue from under the arms and below the wire and lift your breasts into the cups so all of your tissue is enclosed by the wire (also called 'swoop and scoop').

Check at your sides, towards the armpit, that all breast tissue is surrounded by the wire, and comfortably encased by the cup.

The wires sit on your tissue
Try on one or 2 cup sizes up. Judge this by how much space you have in the cups. Our wires will be about 0.5-1cm wider/higher per size. 

The wires feel too high and are painful/uncomfortable
If the cup is also quite loose, try on 2 cup sizes down. If the cup is only a little loose, try on one cup size down.

The wires are uncomfortable but you're not sure why
Make sure that you're wearing the correct underband size. Both a too loose and too tight underband can cause discomfort, as the wires won't sit where they should.


The Gore

The gore should sit completely flat on your chest.

If the gore stands off your body, this usually means the cups are too small, and your breasts are pushing the wires off your chest. Try on one or two cup sizes larger and ensure your underband is fitting correctly (see below).

The exception to this rule is if you have touching breasts or most of your breast tissue is located towards the centre of the chest. In this case, a small distance between gore and chest is acceptable, as long as it's comfortable.

If the gore causes you pain:

  • Check your wires aren’t too small or too large – this is usually what causes the problem.
  • Also check your underband is tight enough – if not the wires will collapse inwards and put pressure on your breastbone – all the support should be coming through the underband.
  • If none of these solutions work for you, try a different style of bra 




Ultimately not every bra will work for every person. If one style doesn't feel right, even after check your size and fit, try on something else! If you need any help or advice we'd love to hear from you! Contact us on or dm on Instagram us @phaein_official